Decal Solvent and Set

Painting methods, display options and general tweaks.
patrickivan
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Decal Solvent and Set

Post by patrickivan » Fri Jan 06, 2017 4:22 pm

Hi

Finally getting to the point of starting to apply my decals on my 1/350 TMP E.

Never used decal sol and set before, so I'll do some tests first. But I still need to know how much to have on hand for this big kit covered in decals.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

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MEATLOAFr
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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by MEATLOAFr » Sat Jan 07, 2017 1:39 am

for a 350 model... quite a bit of it to be safe
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Moongrim
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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by Moongrim » Sat Jan 07, 2017 4:49 pm

I'd recommend several bottles of each- just to be safe.

The Set is something I use first. It helps 'set' the decal where you want it to be- and keep it there.
The Sol helps the decal to form around all of the bumps and grooves and helps to make it look 'painted on'.
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MEATLOAFr
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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by MEATLOAFr » Sun Jan 08, 2017 1:10 am

take your time, work in sections

scan your decals before going forward, so you can re-print any errors you may make
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patrickivan
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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by patrickivan » Mon Jan 09, 2017 7:42 pm

Thanks for the advice. I'm excited to get some colour on this ship

STR
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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by STR » Thu Jan 12, 2017 3:54 pm

MicroSol is a lifesaver. I use it on every model. Though, there are times where I could use something stronger.

MicroSet merely makes my model reek of vinegar for 5 minutes.

I no longer buy setting solutions. I just finger some water on to the spot if I think I need the lubricant.

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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by Moongrim » Fri Jan 13, 2017 2:02 pm

STR wrote:MicroSol is a lifesaver. I use it on every model. Though, there are times where I could use something stronger.

MicroSet merely makes my model reek of vinegar for 5 minutes.

I no longer buy setting solutions. I just finger some water on to the spot if I think I need the lubricant.
I've noticed that when it comes to decals- that the water used will often 'bead up'. And that depending on the size of the decal- (small ones are more likely)- will drift because of that. Thus the spot you wanted the decal to stay at- won't be the spot where it's at after you've stepped away to let it dry. The Decal set helps to prevent that.
There are Times, Sir, when men of good Conscience cannot blindly follow orders. You acknowledge their sentience, but ignore their personal liberties and freedoms. Order a man to hand over his child to the state? Not while I"m captain.
- J.L.Picard.

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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by STR » Fri Jan 13, 2017 8:00 pm

I usually dab the decal once it's settled in place. If it moves, I rewet the decal and move it. Worst case, usually happens if I wasn't paying attention, is that I'll adjust it after apply the MicroSol. There's a 1-2 minute window where you can move the decal without tearing.

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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by Tesral » Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:05 am

Moongrim wrote:
STR wrote:
I've noticed that when it comes to decals- that the water used will often 'bead up'. And that depending on the size of the decal- (small ones are more likely)- will drift because of that. Thus the spot you wanted the decal to stay at- won't be the spot where it's at after you've stepped away to let it dry. The Decal set helps to prevent that.
So does the corner of a bit of paper towel. I hold the decal in place with the tweeters and touch the towel to the water bead, it is wicked away. Decal stays put.

Here are my two best tools when decaling. The upper pair are "stamp tongs" Idea for handing the decal on the paper. Stamp collectors sleep with theirs (strange bunch) They are an excellent tool for decals for the same reason they are excellent tool for stamps.

The lower pair are just very fine bent tip needle nose tweezers. They are good for many tiny precision uses.
tongs.png
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Moongrim
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Re: Decal Solvent and Set

Post by Moongrim » Sat Jan 14, 2017 4:12 pm

The problem being- it's difficult to gauge when you've blotted up 'just enough' water. I've used tissue paper for the general blotting, and Cotton Swabs for the finer blotting.

Though I've also discovered that metal tweezers tend to become my own worst enemy the longer the decal is wet. It's like the water slowly but surely weakens the longer it's wet. No few times I've managed to tear a decal apart with a metal tweezer that just a few moments ago was 'just fine'.

I've basically resorted to metal tweezers at first to transfer from the small bowl to model, soak up the excess water, sometimes having to use my finger if the decal folds. Then carefully position the decal using a blunted toothpick end (the wood has a bit of give that a metal point doesn't).

And unfolding a decal is an exercise in extreme patience and determination. I dip it into water and attempt to get it to unfold- sometimes I'm successful, sometimes not. I've had to resort to wetting down a finger and carefully unfolding it on my wet finger with the tooth pick. All the while trying to keep in mind the window of opportunity ticking away.
There are Times, Sir, when men of good Conscience cannot blindly follow orders. You acknowledge their sentience, but ignore their personal liberties and freedoms. Order a man to hand over his child to the state? Not while I"m captain.
- J.L.Picard.

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