Re-gluing broken styrene model

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michelalano
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Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby michelalano » Wed Feb 22, 2017 3:02 pm

I'm restoring a 25+ year old 1400 Enterprise D. I purposefully broke the dorsal piece off the engineering hull for ease of painting (I'm hand brushing the whole thing) and now I'm about ready to glue it back. Luckily it "broke" where it was supposed to, more or less to its original unglued state, but there is glue residue all around both surfaces. I need to know how to go about getting this back together and ensuring it will be a super strong bond. I assume I will need to sand the contact surfaces, but I'm worried about altering the fit of the pieces. I think I used regular old orange label Testors glue when I was a kid and I'm sure I should use something better like superglue.

After that, I will need to glue the saucer section (which was never glued in the first place) and it looks like the contact points are minimal (to provide the option of leaving it separated). Here's what I'm thinking.

1. glue the dorsal to engineering hull, let dry.
2. glue lower saucer section to dorsal cobrahead (reinforcement tips wanted) and let dry.
3. finally glue upper saucer to lower saucer and complete the model.

I figure if I glue the two saucer halves together before attaching to the rest of the model it would be too much weight bearing on the dorsal piece while the glue is drying.

Thoughts and tips appreciated.
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Tesral
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Re: Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby Tesral » Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:39 pm

Yes, do not glue to glue. You need to clean the old glue withing digging into the plastic. Touch up painting will likely be required.

You do not have to do the main saucer in halves. I holds together pretty well. If you worried about that use five minute epoxy between the cobra head and the saucer, it will fill the gaps and bond strongly.

As a note super glue is not necessarily "better" that Testors orange label glue. It is different and bonds differently. The Testors glue is specific to styrene plastic, and is what is called a "weld" glue. It melts the two pieces together. They also make a liquid glue that I recommend. Application is more precise.

Super glue, cyanoacrylate , the Devil's brew, Kragl, etc. Is an oxygen activated glue that will bind nearly anything to anything. Works best on fingers, or models to fingers. Nearly impossible to pull apart, but has no torsional strength, Twist the two pieces and they part. I mainly use it as trash filler when the bottle goes solid or on resin models.
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Re: Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby MEATLOAFr » Thu Feb 23, 2017 1:18 am

Tesral wrote:Yes, do not glue to glue. You need to clean the old glue withing digging into the plastic. Touch up painting will likely be required.


Agreed, scrape off what you can, then sand the area clear of any paint or old glue, then glue as normal

Tesral wrote:You do not have to do the main saucer in halves. I holds together pretty well. If you worried about that use five minute epoxy between the cobra head and the saucer, it will fill the gaps and bond strongly.

find a good epoxy that you trust, and not to thin that it runs everywhere

Tesral wrote:As a note super glue is not necessarily "better" that Testors orange label glue. It is different and bonds differently. The Testors glue is specific to styrene plastic, and is what is called a "weld" glue. It melts the two pieces together. They also make a liquid glue that I recommend. Application is more precise.


also, if you use the Testors "standard" glue - don't put (or clamp) to much pressure, can deform the plastic if there's to much


Tesral wrote:Super glue, cyanoacrylate , the Devil's brew, Kragl, etc. Is an oxygen activated glue that will bind nearly anything to anything. Works best on fingers, or models to fingers. Nearly impossible to pull apart, but has no torsional strength, Twist the two pieces and they part. I mainly use it as trash filler when the bottle goes solid or on resin models.


the "Kragle" can also leave finger print "ghosts" if not properly ventilated, and some paints might not react to well with it to

with whatever glue you do end up using, make sure to clean up and wipe off the excess before it dries to much - and don't go "hog wild"
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Re: Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby Moongrim » Thu Feb 23, 2017 2:08 pm

Some uses for old model sprue: a perfect base upon which to test a new adhesive. You'll save yourself a tonne of trouble on the main piece.
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Re: Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby Tesral » Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:44 pm

Indeed.
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Re: Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby TonyG2 » Fri Feb 24, 2017 3:53 pm

I have to confess I hate superglue. I will on occasion use it when there is no other choice but I have minimal faith in it providing a lasting joint. That is despite the fact that hardly any models I have used on have fallen apart - and those that have tended to be white metal models such as wargame figures.

I can usually be certain that the thing that gets stuck together is my fingers, often being bonded to the part of the model I am working on.

As I use it so infrequently, the tubes and bottles are usually solid by the time I actually need them (as Tesral noted) and every bottle of Zipkicker I have bought has evaporated before I use it more than a couple of times.

That being said, my success rate with epoxy glues such as Araldite is almost as bad.

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Re: Re-gluing broken styrene model

Postby NCC1966 » Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:55 pm

I would scrape all the old glue and rebond the parts with 2-part epoxi. Then it is just a matter of putty, sand and paint.

:)
Thanks,

Yan.


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